Times are Changing

According to Urban Dictionary, change is "a word that was used so much in the 2008 U.S. Presidential Election that it no longer has meaning." Well, no offense to Urban Dictionary, but for me change holds a lot of meaning. 


Changing my clothes allow me to transform from a Westerner "playing dress-up" to a Westerner just far from home. One simple element, clothing, here means everything. From the abaya to the sheila, each piece of clothing you choose says something about who you are, where you are from, and what you believe. Clothes are not the only way that I have changed since embarking on this ongoing adventure. 


I am slowly learning Arabic. A change that seems to be ongoing and right now seems never-ending. One of my Arabic colleagues has agreed to work with me one period each day--insa'allah, of course-- to help me learn Arabic. Sometimes I think they think I have not been trying, and well in all honesty, I guess I wasn't. It wasn't for a lack of trying, I just didn't have a class or anything to go to so progress was slow. Chances to use the Arabic I know is limited as well. I know that seems hard to believe, but they want to practice and learn English just as much as I want to learn Arabic so it is hard find that balance where both parties are benefitting. 


Another difference, I have trouble labeling it a change because it was a habit all along, is my extra time to read and write. I wouldn't try to claim my writing has gotten better, it still needs editing and a lot is probably best left for my private collection, but I find that I am more inspired and have time to write. I am not stressed out with work, no football games, dances, or meetings to attend that steal away the evening. Now don't get me wrong, there are things to do out here in the desert. However, if I want to stay in and write some fiction, or work on an essay. I have the time. I seem to be going through books a lot faster too. Though Pillars of the Earth, as good as it is, makes me feel like I have been reading the same book forever. 


I know that neither of these things seem to be real life altering changes. In fact, the are quite simple and something that really could have been accomplished at home, maybe. It is hard to really take in everything that is going on when you uproot your life. Yes, I still have a storage unit of stuff, a family, and a crazy puppy waiting for me at home, but my daily life is lived out here in the desert of Liwa. I reach for long sleeves even though I know it is 90+ degrees and never think twice about the choice. No I am not completely comfortable in this environment, that would be a lie. The dust kills my allergies, and while the heat isn't as crippling as those first steps out of the airport, but long sleeves in hundred degree weather is sometimes uncomfortable. However, with the benefit of air condition, evening excursions, and late night hours, I am able to enjoy what life has to offer here. 


It is hard to believe that it is already the end of March. I have been able to experience so much and grow from each of the experiences I have had since arriving in September. I know that my growth is not over and I am sure more changes are in the cards. I just have to remember to not lose myself within the changes, and enjoy this time. I am not the same person that stepped off the plane in September, and so far I don't regret the changes that have lead me to who I am today. I hope that my experience here will continue to allow me to "find" new parts of myself that I might have forgotten, blocked, or been too afraid to let shine. Maybe I will even find a way to love those parts of me that aren't so perfect, weirder things have happened. 

Testing and Education

Whether in the U.A.E. or the good old U.S.A, testing is a reality that you cannot escape no matter where you teach. Unfortunately, one of the most reliable ways to see if your students have learned anything is through testing.

One of the positives with the program here in Abu Dhabi is the lack of testing. As we approach the EMSA test, it is hard to keep this in mind, but as I sat down to write I realized I have not wrote a single test for my students. They have had quizzes here or there, but in the end their grade is comprised of various tasks. These tasks test their reading, writing, and speaking skills. They challenge the students and allow for results without having to put a testing label on it.

However, you cannot completely escape testing. As I said, it is one of the most reliable--sometimes. With testing, comes rules and regulations on how to administer the test. Today, as I sat in a meeting about the upcoming exams, I could have sworn that I was back in Cumberland, VA listening to the information about testing procedures on the SOL's. The information and the mode of delivery is the same. The only difference being the translation into Arabic. It was definitely one of those moments where I was reminded that education at its foundation is the same no matter where you teach. It has one goal, to see children succeed. The methods and modes of getting them there may be different, but in the end they are not as different as they appear.

The testing preparation, has also shed light on some of the culture here. Pressure, everyone's motivating factor to get in shape, study for the quiz, etc. America knows how to pressure people, but they have nothing on the culture here. There are days that I wish I had a stress monitor on each student in my class. Whether it is because they are women and must work harder to achieve things in life, or because it is just the trend toward education, these students are under a lot of pressure to succeed. Now when I say succeed, I don't mean "B"s. A 99% is just good. Anything lower is a problem, especially for seniors. For those of you who thought getting into college in America was difficult, listen to this:

Student grades are looked at strictly as numbers. No A, B, C stuff here. It is all about whether it is a 99% or 95%. Those four points can decide whether they study the field they want to in college. Sometimes it can even mean whether they get in. There is no choosing your major, your grades decide for you. Then you might have a choice between a few in a certain field. Before you even think about getting to college you are set on a track, arts or science, this track determines the course you will take and the types of schools you can attend after secondary school is completed. If that wasn't enough, you have national tests that determine whether you have to pay for junior college before heading to a real college. If you do not score high enough you do not even have the choice of applying to college. You must take at least a year at junior college.

I don't know about you, but I feel a lot less pressure towards the college system in America. Yes, there is a lot of competition and things are getting extremely difficult, but comparatively, I think there is a lot we take for granted. Sure you may not always get into your top choice, or get the class schedule you wanted, but at least you have a choice. You can study what you want, take the classes you want as long as you are accepted that is all that matters.

The students here feel this pressure daily. They work hard, and even in classes of their native tongue, struggle to learn all the information they need. I sometimes wonder how much they really take with them in the end. With all the pressure and expectations put on these students by themselves, friends, family, and culture - - - how to we ensure success without destroying individuality? All we can do is continue to give them the tools they need, encourage their creativity, and hope that by giving them the tools they can build the future. 

The Little Things

There is so much that I know I took for granted living in America. I knew where to shop for the best clothes, shoes, bras . . .

The funny thing about it, I don't ever remember learning these things. One day, I just knew. You ask friends, you just go and check it out, or the countless commercials draw you in. Whether it is the fact that I cannot understand the commercials, or that the same products are not available, I don't know, but shopping can sometimes be an adventure of sorts.

First of all, I have never done this much research on malls and stores before heading out to go shopping. I have read the description of countless stores trying to find the one with the description that appealed the most.  With suggestions  from our Arabic counterparts, which is an interesting task in itself, Judy and I headed out on Friday in and attempt to find a store that would have what we needed-- bras.

After nailing down where were going, we took the two hour drive into the heart of Abu Dhabi. First stop Al Whadha Mall. First store, did not even have a tape measure. Strike one. Next store catered only to teens so they did not have a bust size large enough. Strike two. Strike three, came quickly after strike two fast and looking exactly the same as the previous strike. Needless to say, that mall was useless. We found sizes that seemed unnatural, but nothing that would have worked for the average woman. We were started to get worried that we would go home empty handed, but with a few suggestions from the saleswomen and another mall to check out, we headed back out.

Our next step Khalidiyah Mall was much more successful. After a delicious Mexican lunch, we were revived and ready to tackle the next store. I must here make a shout out to the person who thought of making a bra extender. Not the biggest confidence boost, but a life saver in my case. This little piece of stretchy material with extra clasps allowed me to be able to leave the mall with new bras I would have not been able to wear otherwise. Truly a great invention.

After finding bras, our spirits were uplifted and we roamed the stores for a while. I got a few tops, a beach dress, and other odds and ends. Overall, it was a successful trip. Four malls later, and some careful navigation of the back streets of Abu Dhabi, we came home with a car full of goodies. It was a tiring day of shopping, but fun all the same.

There are some conveniences of American life that you just don't think about until the issue arises. At least if I stick around for a while, I know where to go first next time. It may not have been easy, but the good things in life never are.  

Weekend in Al Ain

A three day weekend, every teachers favorite thing to hear. Since I am not going anywhere significant in March, I knew I needed to get out of town this weekend. Off to the other side of the emirate-- Al Ain.

Thankfully, I had a friend who was kind enough to let me sleep on her couch. It made it a lot cheaper weekend, then if I had gone to Dubai or Abu Dhabi. Plus, I have been those places, I had not been to Al Ain. Despite living there, she had not explored much either, it was a perfect set up.

It was a really nice visit. We had been put in the Park Rotana when we first arrived and became friends there. To be honest, I cannot remember how we first met. It could have been waiting for the luggage truck to finally arrive that first night or just sitting down to breakfast together, either way we hung out, explored the city together and then parted ways when we were transferred to our school regions. We had kept in touch, a message here or there on Facebook, but had not had the chance to meet and catch up. Since I knew that Al Ain had a little more to offer, I thought it would be better to have our reunion there. She can always come visit Liwa, but she doesn't need a three day weekend to do it. Needless to say, it was nice to catch up. We talked a lot about school of course, but about life as well. Though I love the folks here in Liwa, it was nice to see a different face for a while.

As for Al Ain, I have very mixed feelings. Though life there seems to be more convenient, (once you learn to navigate the roundabouts. There wasn't one real turn in the entire city, no joke!) it was not everything that I had expected. I guess the biggest surprise was that it didn't feel like "The Garden City", as it is nicknamed. There were trees and bushes, and grass, but I just didn't feel  like it was so much more. When compared to the cement matrix of Abu Dhabi, it is a garden, but I still felt like I was in the desert at times. The pertified sand dunes, that they call mountains, might have something to do with that. To be completely honest, it felt like an American suburb. The building styles were different, and the signs had Arabic and English, but otherwise a suburb feel was what it portrayed. It was really nice to visit a friend, but I do not think I could live there. Never was a huge fan of the suburbs back home.

Other than a few malls, and spending money on things I did not really need, (wouldn't be a vacation otherwise, right? ) the main place we went was the Zoo. We had planned to go to Jebel Haffeet and the Hot Springs, but he weather squashed that plan. It was really windy, and though I am sure it would have been perfectly safe, I didn't want to go out in the wind and get a nice layer of sand on me. No matter how nice the temperature, that wind can force a person inside. However, we did manage to make it to the Zoo that morning before things got windy. Though smaller than some of the zoos I have been to in the past, it was still a very nice area. There were tons of trees and flowers, and the habitats for the animals seemed humane. The animals had large enclosures, or for the giraffes, a large field. The only thing I would have liked to change is the gorilla enclosure. She had no one with her, and it was obvious that she was lonely. She sat by the window and would look up at the people with these sad eyes. I think they need to find someone to be in there with her. Every other animal had a friend, why not her? There is not much else to say about the zoo really. A zoo is a zoo; it has various animals--in this case a lot of lions--and you walk around and look at them, hoping they will do something picture worthy. The wolves were sleeping or otherwise engaged when we were there, they are the only animal I was disappointed I didn't get to see. The rest, though not active, we out in plain sight. Most taking naps in the shade or sun.

As I said before, the trip to Al Ain was nice. It was good to have a change of pace for a while, and though I did not get to do everything I would have wanted, it gives me an excuse to go back for another visit. 

An Emirati Wedding

This weekend I had the opportunity to attend an Emirati wedding. The thing that sticks out most in my mind about their weddings is the mix of extravagance and moderation.

The celebration is of course segregated by gender. While in the same general location, all of the women party together, while the men do their thing (whatever that may be). As strange as this is, I think it is a welcomed event for the women because they are able to unwind, let loose, and shed the abaya, at least for a little while. The few colleagues that were there with us, got up and showed us some dance moves we didn't think these ladies possessed. It was nice to see them let their guard down and have some fun for a little while. They don't get to show that side of their personality in this culture a lot. The dresses ranged from high school prom to something you would see in a Ms. Universe Pageant . . . the girls don these glittering gowns, put on make-up, and give the people of Texas a run for their money in the big hair competition. The make-up is also a bit dramatic, though it has a different effect on different people. For me it was all over- the -top, but for some I could see, though extreme in my views, it was tastefully done. I just have never been one for bright pink, green, blue . . . they are usually not colors seen on respectable women back in the states. However, they so rarely get to wear make up in this culture that they want to make sure they take full advantage of the situation. Like I said, it wasn't bad, just very different than what I am used to.

The outfits are not the only extreme thing in the wedding hall. At the door you are greeted by family members of the wedding party. In my case, I did not recognize the person I was greeting at first. Usually covered at work so that only her eyes are showing, Mina, was unveiled and striking in a red, black, and white dress. My student Hamama, Mina's sister, was in a beautiful sky blue gown. Both of course had glittering jewels, which I cannot verify, but I can guess were real. I have gotten of course though, I was going to talk about the hall itself. When you enter, it is on a carpet that stretches to the front of the hall. At the front is a walkway (once again reminiscent of a pageant) leading to a couch on a stage. The couch looks too nice to sit on, but it is where the bride will spend her time during the party. No one but family is allowed near the bride, though trust me when she showed up, you couldn't miss her. I will have more on the bride later. The tables and chairs around the stage where not much different than any catered event you might find in the states. The stage is really where the extravagance of the decorations lay. Gold chrome decorations, in a middle eastern style, are mirror images of each other on either side of the couch sitting in the center. Lights, flowers, and crystal ball light fixtures are scattered across the stage, focusing more on the area nearest the couch. As I said, the couch looks too nice to sit on, like something you would see on a tour of a castle. The type of furniture that sits untouchable beyond the velvet rope. Even the servants are in sparkling outfits of gold, to fit in with the glitzy decor.

However, despite the glitz and glamour on and around them, the guests are for the most part dressed modestly. I myself was in a abaya, as well as any other adult in attendance. Many wore a burka and had their sheyla on as well. Little dancing occurred and when it did, it was mostly the teenagers. Judy and I did not know the protocol on dancing. The wedding as we know it, includes the electric slide, some oldies, and of course guilty pleasures. Each type of song you find someone on the dance floor, often the bride herself. Not the case at an Emirati wedding. The focus is food, and drinks. Lots of drinks. All types of tea and juices of course, you won't find stupid drunk behavior here. While the lack of energy and excitement, in my opinion, was strange, the weirdest part was the fact that for most of the party the bride wasn't even there. Here we were celebrating the wedding of two people, already separated from one half, the other one is not there at all. From what I was told, neither party was at their respective celebrations until late. It is the first party that I have ever been to, that for the majority of it, it did not include the celebrant.

As I mentioned early, when the bride did arrive, there was no chance that she would be missed. Chairs lining the walkway, the bride was escorted in by her father and brothers. Slowly making their way down the walkway, my guess because of the sheer weight of her gown. All eyes were on her, as pictures were taken of her progress. Once on stage, she was escorted up and down, pausing every so often to make sure everyone had time see her. The stage, and ceremony of it all is meant to put the bride on display. I know that the wedding day is supposed to be all about the bride, (and groom, I guess) but this is the first time I have seen it so blatantly displayed. Not that I think it is a bad thing, just different. As for the dress, I mentioned that the weight had to be extreme. The skirt and train could have hid small children. The front and back had a intricate beading design that covered the corset and chest. With all the lights, the sparkle could have blinded a person if they weren't careful. The veil was draped lightly on her head, and her hair was pulled back in an elaborate up-do. It was all topped off with a massive diamond and ruby necklace. Nothing but glamour for the bride. At this point in the night, it was after 11PM, so we did not stay very long.

Overall, it was a very interesting experience. I would not say it was bad, but I have to admit that I much prefer western style weddings. When I go to a party, I like to get all dressed up, but I also like to feel like it is a party. It was a nice night out at the Emirati wedding, but in my view the party fell short. I'm sure there will be many more, and I am interested to see if the experience changes or if Emirati weddings are, "Been to one, been to them all," type deal.